For the 2026 edition of Milan Design Week, the ISSEY MIYAKE flagship store on Via Bagutta transforms into a laboratory of material memory, hosting The Paper Log: Shell and Core, a collaborative exploration between Satoshi Kondo of MIYAKE DESIGN STUDIO and the Spanish architecture practice Ensamble Studio.
From byproduct to building block. The project centers on the “Paper Log,” a dense, 80-centimeter-high cylinder of wafer-thin pleated paper. Far from being a manufactured material, these rolls are a functional byproduct of the house’s signature garment pleating technology, originally serving only to protect delicate fabrics as they pass through the heat press. In their raw state, the logs possess a striking structural honesty; their cross-sections reveal circular marbling that mimics the growth rings of a tree, serving as a silent tally of the time and rhythm embedded in the making process.
The architecture of the ‘Shell’. In a dialogue between disciplines, Ensamble Studio — led by Antón García-Abril and Débora Mesa — approached the material with a desire to “listen to its memory”. Their contribution, titled Shell, treats the paper as a spatial layer. By peeling back the layers of the log and treating the translucent sheets with hardening agents, the architects have “petrified” the ephemeral. The resulting objects, ranging from free-form sculptures to chairs wrapped in paper skins, capture the creases and wrinkles of their former life, freezing the fluid movement of fashion into permanent, rigid volumes.
Prototyping the ‘Core’. Contrasting this architectural crystallization is the work of the in-house project team, dubbed Core. Here, the Paper Log is treated as a robust, solid mass rather than a delicate skin. The team presents furniture prototypes — stools, chairs, and tables — that have been carved, sawn, or bundled. These objects explore the material’s absorbent nature, utilizing wax and glue to alter its density and texture, moving the byproduct closer to the functionality of traditional timber while maintaining its distinct, pleated soul.
A shared territory of process. The collaboration succeeds because it avoids a linear transfer of knowledge, opting instead for a parallel investigation. While the fashion house brought a deep understanding of the relationship between the body and pleated layers, the architects introduced techniques for material stabilization and scale-shifting. This intersection suggests that sustainability in the luxury sector is not merely about recycling, but about re-evaluating the “intelligence” already present in industrial waste.
Sensory experience in the store. Stepping into the Via Bagutta space, visitors encounter an environment defined by the tension between the ephemeral and the concrete. The installation is arranged to highlight these dualities: delicate paper clouds suspended from the ceiling contrast with heavy, wax-soaked benches on the floor. The air carries a subtle materiality, a physical presence of the thousands of sheets of paper that have been transformed from a temporary protective layer into a lasting structural form.
Value in the peripheral. As Satoshi Kondo notes, the project is fundamentally about finding value in the peripheral. By elevating a material intended for disposal into an object of utility and beauty, the exhibition honors the legacy of Issey Miyake, whose work always sought to integrate innovative making with the poetry of everyday life. It is an exercise in continuity, where the trace of a garment’s creation becomes the foundation for a new piece of furniture.
The future of making. The Paper Log: Shell and Core serves as a reminder that the boundaries between fashion and the built environment are increasingly porous. Through this collaboration, the pleated paper is given a second life that does not erase its past but transforms its potential. This approach to material research highlights a shift toward a more conscious and experimental way of creating, where the process itself — with all its trials and errors — is the most valuable product.
Expanding the creative lexicon. This synthesis of high-performance fashion and structural exploration follows a consistent thread in recent years. The brand continues to prove that the logic of “a piece of cloth” can be applied across diverse scales, whether collaborating on the Asics x Issey Miyake sneakers or exploring digital ergonomics with the iPhone pocket design. It is an ongoing dialogue where the garment, the object, and the space are all part of the same interconnected narrative.
The Paper Log: Shell and Core | Where: ISSEY MIYAKE / MILAN, Via Bagutta 12, Milan – When: April 21 – May 5, 2026 | 10 AM – 7 PM