Athens, a city steeped in history and culture, now boasts a vibrant new culinary destination: Koumkan. Nestled within the reimagined Semiramis Hotel, this restaurant and bar transcends mere dining, offering a curated experience that blends classic elegance with contemporary Athenian sensibilities. Koumkan represents not just a revitalization of the hotel’s food and beverage offerings, but a thoughtful reconnection to its original design DNA, all while establishing itself as a standalone beacon of gastronomic excellence.
The driving force behind Koumkan is Ari Vezene, Creative Director of Green Garlic, a hospitality group renowned for its transformative approach to creating fine living experiences. Vezene’s vision for Koumkan centers around a celebration of indulgence, where classic dishes are not simply replicated, but reimagined through masterful technique and the use of premium ingredients. The menu, while rooted in tradition, reflects a modern culinary philosophy, promising a delightful journey for the palate.
Koumkan’s design, which opened its doors in November 2024, is as much a part of the experience as the cuisine itself. It evokes the grandeur and whimsical charm of timeless hotel cocktail lounges, yet filtered through a distinctly minimalist lens. The space unfolds as a series of distinct environments, each with its own unique ambiance, creating a microcosm of the public layer found within the world’s grandest hotels.
The journey begins in the Foyer, accessible via a travertine staircase leading down from the street. Here, a mirrored garden creates a sense of verdant tranquility, while an oversized center-pivot door reveals a rose-tinted reception area bathed in soft, inviting light. The Foyer, with its floating travertine walls and strategically placed mirrors, sets the tone for the luxurious experience that awaits.
From the Foyer, guests are ushered through a hidden mirrored door into the Parlor. This striking bar room is clad entirely in green Tinos marble, a monolithic statement of natural beauty. The stone is ingeniously carved to form high-top banquettes, shelves, a DJ booth, the bar itself, and even footrests. The mirrored ceiling amplifies the drama, creating the illusion of stepping into a quarry of emerald green. Vintage stainless steel sconces, reminiscent of the 1960s, and a custom-designed horizontal chandelier provide a warm, intimate glow.
Beyond the Parlor lies the Grande Salle, the heart of Koumkan. This exuberant space functions as a lounge, cocktail bar, and restaurant, all under a soaring, kaleidoscopic atrium. Seven-meter mirrors reflect a pair of four-meter custom-designed chandeliers, creating a dazzling spectacle of light and reflection. Curving banquettes, upholstered in rich fabrics, trace boomerang shapes across the soft pink sisal carpet, creating a sense of dynamic movement. The central banquettes are cleverly divided, allowing diners both to see and be seen, while more secluded tables offer a haven for intimate conversations. The “banana bar,” a sleek expanse of pink travertine, extends dramatically into the space, serving as a focal point for social interaction.
Connecting the Grande Salle to the hotel’s pool deck is the Grotto, a lush, semi-sheltered lounge area. This cave-like space, crafted from local materials and employing artisanal techniques, embraces the organic shape of the bean-shaped pool. The walls are clad in peach-pink terracotta, while the floors are finished in pastel pink travertine tiles. Submerged just below the pool’s waterline, the Grotto offers diners a unique and captivating perspective.
Throughout Koumkan, art plays an integral role. A curated collection of antiques, commissioned pieces, and custom-designed furniture, including chrome-polished stainless steel chairs inspired by the 1950s Mediterranean Riviera style, enhances the overall aesthetic. Dakis Joannou, a renowned international art collector, has ensured that emerging artists are given a platform within the space. Signature custom black chairs by Ellie Joannou, unique giant ceramics by Elina Vassilakis, and mirrors inspired by ancient Greek goddesses by Olga Migliaressi Pocha are just a few examples of the art that graces Koumkan.
In its entirety, Koumkan evokes the sophisticated atmosphere of an interwar bar in cities like Milan or Vienna. Ceilings of stretched mirrors and architectural elements, used in lieu of traditional ornamentation, create a sense of timeless elegance. The layout, with its baroque sensibility, twists and flows in unexpected ways, encouraging exploration and discovery. Koumkan is more than just a restaurant; it is a destination, a place where Athenians and visitors alike can come together to enjoy exceptional cuisine, exquisite design, and a truly unforgettable atmosphere.